Monday, May 4, 2009

Machu Picchu

I wasn't expecting much from Machu Picchu. I had listened to a few days of disappointed reports from others that had just made the journey. Even more exhausting were Andrew's unending complaints about the extortion of PeruRail and of crowding of the ruins with gringos. I went anyways. Just like you can't go to Rome without seeing the Colleseum, Machu Picchu is one of those places that you have to check off the life-list.

It was raining and a bit cloudy on top of the mountain, but that added a little bit of intrigue and mysticism. I had slept in a little bit more than I had wanted, but got there a few hours before the hordes hit and was able to explore. As far as ruins go, Machu Picchu probably was not as impressive as Saqsaywaman or some others that we had visited in the Sacred Valley, but the location is pretty incredible. And, yes, it was worth it.

Machu Picchu at sunrise.
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu


Peaking through the clouds.
From valle sagrada erin


Temple of the three windows.
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu


The ruins.
From valle sagrada erin


Andrew on top of Wayna Picchu.
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu


Money shot.
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu


Ceremonial bath. (different from the type of shower below)
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu


My favorite action shot. A llama that came to stand in front of where I was sitting, spread it hind legs, and took a huge rapid-fire dump while it pissed. Pretty impressive.
From valle sagrada erin


Inti huatana, hitching post of the sun. The Inca's sundial.
From Valle Sagrada and Machu Picchu

Sunday, May 3, 2009

More Salt

Although they are not ruins, the Salineras of Maras were one of the most impressive ancient Incan sites. Built and maintained by the in the 1500s, they are still in use today. Citizens of the nearby city of Maras are given a certain number of plots, which they work and are able to keep the profits from: a type of Cooperative. An elaborate aqueduct system fills the pans with water from the nearby river. As evaporation takes place, the salt begins to crystallize. Dry salt is packaged and sold. Makes me wanna shoop.

Salt pans taking up the hillside.
From valle sagrada erin


From valle sagrada erin


Salt on the sides of the aqueduct system.
From valle sagrada erin


At sunset
From valle sagrada erin

Sacred Valley Superlatives

People come to the Sacred Valley of the Incas for one reason...Ruins. They are old. They are stony. They are big. And I admit they are pretty impressive. You would probably be ruined-out and incredibly bored if I wrote a post about every ruína that we visited in the Sacred Valley. So, I'll just hit the highlights: Senior Superlative style.


Most likely to be late to graduation - Ollantaytambo
Sprawling ruins, with lots of projects (temples, terraces, homes, baths, crop silos) left undone. Just a little late on the start, these ruins were abandoned in limbo with the invasion of the Spanish. It is also one of the most interesting places to see the building process...as ramps and stone cuttings were hastily left as they were.

Stone that looks like it was cut...but by what? The Incas had no knowledge of steel, and other metals would have been too soft. Curious, but how else would they obtain such stony perfection.


Impressive stonework at Ollantaytambo.

From valle sagrada erin



Most likely to be a supermodel - Saqsaywaman
Hands down the sexiest stonework, with walls of stone that fit together a little too perfectly. Built as a defense fortress above Cusco, the walls are big and wide, but the stones fit so tightly there is not enough space to fit a knife blade between the rocks. It is hard to imagine that anyone, especially someone 700 years ago, was able to move (stones up to 80 tons) or fit the stones with such precision. And, with a name like "sexy woman", it's fate is already decided.

Andrew posing by one of the largest stones at Saqsaywaman, over 80 tons, and a little taller than an average height human.
From valle sagrada erin


More stonework.
From valle sagrada erin



Most likely to succeed - Machu Picchu

Not only does he wear suits and ties to school, he already has an internship with an investment banking firm set up after graduation. Damn him! The ruins of Machu Picchu aren't quite as beautiful or well-built as some of the others in the Sacred Valley, but they are well publicized with incredible financial backing. The ruins of Machu Picchu are on an unbeatable, mystical mountaintop location, and destined to succeed (at least from a touristy point of view). You can definitely see the price of popularity at these ruins, as thousands of people visit daily and the wear and tear and crowds are inevitable.

Machu Picchu showing through the clouds from the top of Wayna Picchu



Most eccentric - Moray
...or at least concentric. This area of circles was built as a type of crop laboratory. Each circular terrace (supposedly) represents a unique micro-climate. Experiments with different types of potatoes and corn and other crops were performed to see what grows best where. It also catches every aspect of the sun during the day. Hippies from around the world travel here to soak in the magical healing powers Moray is said to have. I can't say I felt anything magical, but maybe that is because I am a square.

Moray...all circular and stuff.

From valle sagrada erin

Descending flagstone steps in the side of the terraces. Real steps were thought to weaken the terraces.
From valle sagrada erin



Most likely to be high at graduation - Pisac

It's high, man. And when you start exploring, there is way more than meets the eye...layers and layers back into the mountains. Fortresses were built facing every direction, a little paranoid of possible attacks. On the hillsides a type of fear-reducing tea was cultivated and used by workers that had to toil on steep, exposed terraces to help them calm the fuck down. Pisac didn't make me want to eat a family size package of Kraft macaroni and cheese and a giant bag of Rolos at 3 o'clock in the morning, but it did blow my mind a little bit.

In front of the temples at Pisac.
From valle sagrada erin


Climbing up to the fortresses.
From valle sagrada erin

View of the Valley from the trail to Pisac.
From valle sagrada erin

Friday, May 1, 2009

Strange Fruits...

...with apologies to Langston Hughes.

One of the highlights of hiking in the Colca Canyon was trying crazy, wild fruits.

Tuna, aka prickly pear fruit. It was all over the place. The cacti aren't the evilest in the forest, but the fruits have barbs so care (or gloves) are required to pick and peel them. They come in a range of colors and flavors. The red ones seemed sweeter and juicier, the white ones with creamier flesh. All types are full of numerous edible seeds. Excellent chilled on a hot day.


Pitaya agria (Corryocatus brevistylus), or locally called something like mosqui. Some Peruvian websites also call it sanky. Tastes a little like the love child of a kiwi and lemon. Grows on tower-shaped cacti.



We can't figure out what this guy is called, but one of its nicknames is supposedly plátano del la sierra. Grows on squat trees with big, thick trunks and huge leafs. The trees are highly heterozygous, like apple trees apparently. Some of the trees yield sweet fruits, while others yield picante fruits, which are not eaten. You gotta be a local to know which trees yield which fruit, since there is no way to tell by looking at them. See also here.

The fruit has a very gummy flesh and is full of edible seeds. It has a rather disagreeable texture if chewed, but is pretty tasty if you slurp it like a raw oyster. It tastes like a combination of cucumber and banana.
From Strange Fruits


Not a fruit, but delicious-ass crepes in from The Crepería in Arequipa. I could eat these forever.